Bourgogne, Côte d'Or, Oktober 2001
[ German - deutsch ]
Burgundy won't let us go and so this year we again were attracted by the Côte d'Or - our self chosen wine-home country. We arrived on the last days of September and stayed in the beginning of October in the midst of the vineyards. The vinters are quite busy during that time, the new vintage has just been brought in and has to be observed carefully. So this time we made less appointments, but on the other hand discovered new ways through the climates and villages and enjoyed the wonderful '99ers which we already had tasted last year from the wood and are meanwhile bottled.
1999 has turned out to be a very successful vintage. We believe the reds to be extraordinary; they have a beautiful balanced fruit and mostly a harmonic tannin/acidity structure. Though they aren't as heavy as the '90 and '93, they are therefore much finer. Very similar from this decade is the '96, but we regard the '99 much more subtle and finer. One has to see how they develop over the years.
This year we also tried many '97 and '96 red wines and formed the thesis that - at the moment - they can be distinguished by their characteristic structure of acidity: The 97's have an acidity that reminds one of apple and apple skin from red apples. The 96's have a clear acidity reminding one of cherries. As a result one can recognise that the fruit of the 96's is more beautiful, though this is often dependent on one's individual taste.
When we describe notes of fragrance and taste one has to keep in mind that good wine changes and develops continuously. This year we tasted some wine which we had tried already last year. Their aroma have changed. Some were more closed, some overcame their lactic acid that was recognised last year by us, because of the yoghurt tones. But we think it is fair and much more precise to describe how the wine tasted in on particular moment than to use safe, general descriptions; these surely cannot be criticised, but have more in common with weather forecasts than with individual impressions.
Nikolai Vogel & Kilian Fitzpatrick