Terrific Leasehold
Grattamacco
(Bolgheri)
On the street of Bolgheri there are a lot of turnoffs up to the left. One of it leads to Grattamacco which isn't easy to find, even when you get the right exit. But the search is worthwhile. Grattamacco is the second oldest wine estate of Bolgheri. It was founded in 1977, after Sassicaia had started to market its wines commercially to fame and glory. The wooden fermentation tanks which are used for the Grattamacco also come from the wine estate of San Guido because the domains support each other. The first vintage was the 1978.
The vineyards of Grattamacco are situated at about 100 metres (328 feet) above sea level, a wonderful protected climate between the hill of Castagnet Carducci and Castiglioncello, surrounded by primeval forest. The tasting room that is above the barrel cellar offers a magnificent view over the climate. The wild boars love it as well and take the liberty of nibbling away their share before the harvest.
The founder and owner of Grattamacco at present is cultivating a quaint grape variety for dessert wine on the Isle of Elba. Since he devotes himself entirely to this task, he leased out his wine estate to someone else in 2002. The leaseholder is the ColleMassari Group, who also run the wine estate Castello ColleMassari near Grosetto. Under the new leaseholder it remains a priority to process the Grattamacco as a storable first class wine. Both red and white wines of the Grattamacco can cope with time well. If one can resist it in its youth, one should keep it in the cellar for some years.
Bottle Samples:
white
Grattamacco Bianco 2005
100% Vermentino from a vineyard of 1.1 hectare (2.7 acres). 50% processed in stainless steel tanks and 50% in new and used barriques.
In the fragrance honey of acacia, vanilla and very good, flowery fruit. 14.5% alcohol, but well-embedded. Nice play between sweetness and acidity. Creamy and mineral, flintstone and butter. A mighty but nevertheless very fine wine with a long finish.
There are about 8,000 bottles. In the wine estate they already were sold out. About half of them is consumed in the region, the other half go into export. Not easy to get, but very recommendable.
red
Bolgheri Rosso 2005
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 30% Sangiovese.
Matures for ten months in barriques aged two and three years. Fruity with aroma of forest berries. At the moment the Cabernet Sauvignon dominates. Good notes of wood with slight toast. Simple, but fine red Bolgheri.
25,000 bottles.
Grattamacco Rosso 2004
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. 18 months in new and used barriques.
Colour of plum. In the fragrance rather closed. Tar, tobacco, pepper and jam-like tones. Complex and at the same time elegant and fine. The wine estate holds the 2004 to be one of the best that they have ever produced and thinks that in might even be topped by the 2006.
20,000 bottles.
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