Enjoyed in the Evening...
The Marche aux Vins in Beaune, right opposite the Hôtel-Dieus, is a relatively touristic wine tasting place. With the entry fee one gets a sheet plate variant of a Tastevin (that's a typical Burgundy wine tasting cup which was made of real silver in former times. It was mainly used in order to see if the wine showed any clouding). In those beautiful cellar rooms one can taste various wines that are distributed by this trading house. This year we felt we had to give ourselves this treat and we were completely alone in the cellar - low season.
Some wines we liked, some not. We struck up a conversation with one of the cellarmasters and showed us the dungeon containing the real old wines. Among others there was a Grands-Échezeaux 1972 and a Richebourg 1971. We considered and ventured. Scraped together all our savings and went away with the two bottles. In our Gîte we placed them upright so the sediment could settle and we waited for two days.
Before and until that we had enjoyed some good ones - two blow-offs were:
Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves 1990
Chanson Père & Fils
Crimson edges, getting darker towards the middle. Full, beautifully ripe and open bouquet with plum, blackberry, jam-like tones. Some fruit in rum, liquorice, cedar wood, dark cocoa powder, Mon Chéri (a praline with cherry), forest berries and even hints of dried tomato. In the mouth nice full fruit with forest berries and dark red plum, jam, in the aftertaste cocoa and liquorice, round, beautiful. Very well balanced. Amazing, complex Burgundy on its top which is going to keep for quite a few years.
Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 1973
Brick red in the middle, orange mature tones to the edge. In the fragrance first clear aging tones that disappear in the air. Cedar wood, dried fruit, some plum, some fruit in rum, sweet pepper (capsicum), tobacco, white pepper, spice bazaar. In the mouth soft, jam, cooked fruit (rather in the direction of mashed strawberry), plum butter. Long, warm finish, fresh apple like acidity. In the mouth not so strong, the fragrance more intense.
Then the time was ripe. The mature cheese unpacked and both bottles uncorked. Tension ...
Marché aux Vins
Crimson red, with nice mature orange edges. In the bouquet Cassis unfolds, spices, dried plum, blackberry, dark chocolate, game and tobacco. In the mouth plum butter, liquorice, jam with cherry-like, lively acidity and taste of pulp of cherry close to the pit. Long finish and in the aftertaste ripe, dried fig. The tannin is only felt on the edges of the tongue. Nearly no aging tones. Exposed to the air, the wine became fresh again. Not very strong, but elegant and complex.
Marché aux Vins
Crimson red, orange edges. Darker than the Grands-Échezeaux. In the fragrance Cassis, leather, cranberry jam, spices, fruit in rum, fine sweetness, cocoa powder and raisins. No tones of aging. In the mouth blackberry, Cassis, liquorice. Present, dark tannin, light, but pleasant bitter tones and at the same time very fine sweetness. Spicy heat on the tip of the tongue. Deep wine. In the aftertaste plum butter. Long-lasting, in the finish some caramel. So good, so good ... we won! Together with the Grands-Échezeaux a great duo.
The next day we went to Vosne-Romanée. In the midst of cold wind and drizzle we envisioned the two climates on which those wines had grown in our years of birth. The picture above shows Grands Échezeaux with a vehicle and below Richebourg with puddle. A weather for climbing down into the cellar ...
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