Clos de Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges
Vosne-Romanée is the town where Burgundy's most famous
and most expensive wines come from - Romanée-Conti only
produces about 6000 bottles per year. This year we saw in a wine shop
in Beaune a bottle of 1993 at a rather steep price of 12500 FF. But also
the village's not so expensive Village and 1er Cru wines can be very fine
and develop rich finesse. Clos de Vougeot is a very big Grand Cru
climate which is enclosed by a wall. It is shared among 80 owners. The
upper parts count definitely to one of the best climates of the Côte
d'Or. The lower, plain parts that are close to the Route Nationale normally
wouldn't be recognized as Grand Cru if they weren't a part of Clos de
Vougeot. Tearing it apart through different classifications was avoided.
In Nuits-Saint-George there are earthy wines with dark aromas taking
sometimes years until they are open and unfolded. Then they can be very
Armelle et Bernard Rion, Vosne-Romanée
was now the fourth year in a row that we tasted at their place. You can
taste a rich variety of different wines of several Burgundy's appellation
at Armelle et Bernard Rion's. They own climates in Chambolle-Musigny,
Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges and in the Grand Cru Clos de
Vougeot. Bernard Rion also gets enthusiastic about the good cuisine very
easily. At his place brandy- preserved truffle is available, too. He 'hunts'
them together with his cousin.
There are still some wines of earlier vintages. We tasted the reds' 1996
Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire 1996
Elderberry, acidity is stressed, good vintage. Appealing, easy wine. (25
Chocolate, cherry, much tannin and acidity, concentrated. Good vintage.
Worth while keeping for two to three years. (40 FF)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Echezeaux 1996
Last year Bernard Rion told us he wanted to buy a part of Vosne-Romanée
Grand Cru climate Richebourg a few years ago. But he unforutnately missed
the date and was too late. He then bought instead of Richebourg this beautiful
Chambolle-Musigny Villlage climate he is now so proud of. They yield pleasant,
dark good Chambolle-wines that are worth while keeping.
Violets in the bouquet, in the long and good finish there is chocolate
and cocoa. (90 FF)
Dark cherries, blackberries. Dark, elegant, balanced, good! (90 FF)
Very good dark colour. Still green components, some black currant, concentrated,
vanilla, good finish. (90 FF)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 1996
Beautiful dark colour, the bouquet is a bit green, elderberry, in the
mouth much acidity, chocolate in the long finish. Soft wood. Good! (110
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes 1996
Blossoms of elderberry and geraniums in the bouquet. Still you can taste
green components, elegant, fine acidity, fine, elegant tannins. A bit
exotic, slight waft of citrus, pine-apple. Very good wine. (110 FF)
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes 1996
Elderberry, vanilla, difficult to taste now, much acidity, not yet developed,
enclosed, but concentrated. (110 FF)
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers 1996
Some cooked jam, softer and finer than the Les Damodes. Plenty of vanilla,
long finish. (110 FF)
Clos de Vougeot 1996
Bernard and Armelle Rion took the climate in the Clos de Vougeot only
for rent. But Bernard told us he had now bought a long, small strip that
reached more or less from the bottom to the top. He will make the first
wine of it this year, but it will be proccessed with the rented climate.
Dark, concentrated, leather and fur, forest soil and spices in the fragrance.
Plenty of tannins, good wood (100% new barrels), warm, very long finish,
very complex, well balanced. (200 FF)
Most convincing for us this year were the Vosne-Romanées and
the Clos de Vougeot. The wines from Rion should last for longer; they
themselves now drink the vintages of the '60's and the '70's.
A big merchant house with its own vineyards. Here you can visit a spectaculus
celler - the producer's smallest cellar - one out of three. It has a capacity
of some hundred barrels and about 600,000 bottles.
Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 1996
Taste of nuts, a bit egg, some sulfur, green tones. (49 FF)
Golden colour, nut, a bit of white of egg, some vanilla, apple. Already
matured, even beyond its top. (124 FF)
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux 1995
Light colour. In the bouquet clear flintstone, mineral, straw. In
the mouth good acidity, well balanced, flintstone, mineral, slightly nut,
soft, velvety, good. (165 FF)
Light, morello, a bit less intense, clear, not very complex, but pleasant.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Thorey 1995
The vineyard's show off climate. Shining intense red, in the bouquet
whiffs of wood and cherry. High acidity and tannins, resinous, spicy.
Quite good. (150 FF)
Similar colour, vanilla, spicy, typical Gevrey, much acidity. (110
Lighter colour, softer smell, spicy. In the taste leather, game, a
bit vanilla, fine tannin, clear cranberries, good acidity, very well balanced,
Clos de la Roche 1984
A bit cloudy (last third of the bottle), first signs of maturity,
red like garnet. In the fragrance forest soil and leather, spicy, slight
oxidative waft (probably because of the sediment), elegant acidity, fine
tannins, quite good. (150 FF)
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts 1994
Shining. Open, good bouquet, spicy, slight leather, elegant. In the
mouth narrow and not so complex, some tannin. Quite fine, not so rich.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos-de-Thorey 1990
Beautiful colour, intense bouquet, blackberry, spicy, complex. Excellent
wine! (190 FF)
Purple. Wood of stalk, elderberry, green character, long finish, slightly
spicy. Vanilla, good. (229 FF)
Dark red of garnet, mature, orange edges. Smells a bit like turf,
turf fire, cherry liquor, leather. Surprisingly great amount of tannin,
full, quite complex. Wine that is now great fun. (119 FF)
The red wines pleased us much more than the whites. Some of the wines are
Some old wines are still available at Moillard-Grivot. One of them thrilled
us so much that we took it with us and drank it in Bugundy a few days
later after the sediment had settled:
This wine - one of the best vintages of this century - was obvously
re-corked once. But it is still in the original bottle with a shape that
is slightly different from those of today.
Some sediment that settled well because of its grainy consistence. Maturity,
very beautiful colour, surprisingly dark, red like brick, orange edges.
Opulent fragrance, oriental, a lot of plum, cooked fruit, tobacco, game,
leather, spice, some wet forest soil and definitely ground peppers and
dried tomato - very complex! In the taste lightly hot on the tip of the
tongue, spicy, plums, mild ground peppers, warm, long finish, some animal
tones, fur, velvet consistence. Grand Senior- mature, but not too late,
round, soft tannins, soft acidity, in the finish some cherry and steel.
- Broad spread, opulent, complex, changing bouquet. Marvellous and excellent
wine! (750 FF)
Jean-Jacques Confuron, Premoux-Prissey
A Domaine with good climates in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de Vougeot
and Vosne-Romanée that produce rich, concentrated wines. Unfortunately
we had to wait for a while - due to preperations for harvest - though
we had made an appointment. So the tastings from the barrel were made
in a litte rush.
Nuits-Saint-George 1997 barrel sample
Dark cherries, soft, no aggressive tannins, sweet, smooth, intense.
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Fleurières 1997 barrel sample
Harsh, resin, concentrated, fine tannins, relatively dark.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaboeufs 1997 barrel sample
Brilliant, dark colour. Dark aroma. Blackberry, berries from the woods,
vanilla, really excellent.
Clos de Vougeot 1997 barrel sample
Spicy, dark, mushrooms, vanilla, very rich, very good. Still closed.
Complex and intense.
They didn't sell wine. All that was left was in barrels and even that
is very likly to be reserved for regular customers.
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