Between the Olives
Giovanni Chiappini
(Bolgheri)
Coming from the Via Bolgherese, there is an impressing entrance leading through a cypress avenue to the wine estate of Giovanni Chiappini. Its location is - viewed from Castiglioncello - one of the loveliest: The vineyard is interspersed with rows of olive trees.
The Chiappini manor, which consequently is called "Tra gli ulivi" (between the olive trees), measures about 21 hectares (52 acres). On six of them wine is grown, olive trees on another six, other plants on further six. The vines for its wine are up to fifteen years old - in other places this age wouldn't be mentionable or considered as old, but in Bolgheri the vines of many wine makers are only four or five years old at the moment; nevertheless they are used completely for wine making. Older vines naturally are an advantage and essential for producing more complex wines.
Chiappini produces a whole selection of wines, white as well as red, olive oil and good grappa. Besides the degustated wines he introduced his Lienà a short while ago, which is a pure wine made from only one grape variety every year. So there is the Lienà Merlot and the Lienà Petit Verdot. The amount is highly restricted.
Attached to the Chiappini manor, there are also holiday apartments. He said he had wondered that suddenly light had went on in the castle at night time - when we told him we lived directly above him in Castiglioncello.
Bottle Samples:
white
Le Grottine igt 2006
70% Vermentino, 30% Viognier, not kept in wood.
Fruity and fresh with nice sweetness and good acidity. Still green reflections. Fine.
red
Ferrugini igt 2005
100% Sangiovese, not kept in wood.
Cherry-like fruit. Simple. Good.
Felciaino Bolgheri Rosso 2005
50% Sangiovese, 15 % Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, six months in three-to-four-year-old barriques.
Sweet cherry, chocolate, tobacco, ripe tannin, fine acidity.
Guado de' Gemoli Bolgheri Rosso Superiore 2003
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, twelve months in barrique, 50% new, 50% second year.
Very dark. Tobacco, spice, dark fruit. Warm in the mouth. Very long finish. Beamy. You notice the hot year. One can look forward to the 2004.
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