Underground Fruit
Domaine Maume
(Gevrey-Chambertin)
Behind a big but rather plain house on the Route National in Gevrey-Chamberin a little domain is hidden, which produces fine Gevrey-Chambertin in accordance with traditional methods.
On our visit everyone was being busy with this year's vintage. The fermented mash was filled with buckets from a tiled underground storage tank into an old wine press, which - like other devices - seemed to belong to an age long passed, but which still does its job accurately. Despite these traditional devices (or just because of them) there is a high level of professionality.
The owner of the domain, Bernard Maume, is a lecturer at the wine college at Dijon and is for instance working on studies on yeast. Together with his son Bertrand he produces the wines of the domain, which is just below five hectares in size.
The most famous of the Maume wines is the Mazis-Chambertin , and they also own a few ares in the Charmes-Chambertin climate. We sampled the two Gevrey Village wines of the 1998 vintage. The first of them, an assemblage from different climates of the appellation, showed a red cherry colour with good, balanced, slightly closed fruit with a touch of almonds and red apple skin. The Gevrey from the En Pallud climate was more structured in comparison, showed a darker, even more closed fruit, and pine needles and soil aromas. A more Terroir-based wine.
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